So I have a 2023 C8 non Z51 that I am tracking. Yeah I know should have got a z51 but honestly I have met and read several z51 owners who had brake problems as well.

Some background first- I took my stock c8 to MSR Houston in the heat of June with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 AS (stock) and stock brake pads. In the end I smoked all the pads and had to replace all 4 brake rotors and all 4 tires. Replaced them with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S. I also bought Hawk brake pads one set for track one for road.

I went back to MSR Houston in September and did great with the new pads and stock rotors- did 4 sessions a day with no issues despite 100ish temps outside.

So I swap out pads for a track event his weekend and I got distracted and may have mixed up the sets (don't ask!). Looking at them there is not any significant difference in appearance of the sets so not sure how to tell them apart. Anyway my c8 threw out brake failure messages at the end of my first speed session this weekend and I had to drive from Angleton to Aggieland at 43 mph. On a positive note I got 30.5 MPG on the way home!

I took apart the pads and such at home and everything looks ok. I did lose a rear brake cooling duct on the way down due to debris on the road so that may be a factor. I'll post pics of the brake pads and rotors in a sec from my phone..

I'm going to limp it to the dealer on Monday to see what the heck happened. I'm hoping it is just because I mixed up the brake pads and was trying to track on street pads resulting in an overheat error and the C8 freaking out and shutting everything down. If the rotors are damaged (they feel ok to me) I think I will replace them with some performance rotors at this point.

Thanks for reading the long post just trying to figure out this tracking brake thing!

Also, I use a really fat marks a lot permanent marker to number my track pads on the backing plates because I rotate them each event to cut down on uneven wear. The marker fades significantly from the heat, but it is still visible enough the next time I pull the pads. I use Raybestos ST43 on my EVO, but I still fight uneven pad deposits.

Rotors should not look like a record. Something definitely gouged them. Drilled and slotted rotors would be a nice upgrade anyways. Agree with others in that i wouldn't go to the dealer first on this unless you don't care about your warranty. Hit up the corvette forum first.

KidDoc, with these pad changes did you ever change the brake fluid?

I would reach out to Gspeed up at MSR cresson. They are track corvette gurus.

Good point on fluid. I wonder if the overtemp warning is coming from a sensor in the brake fluid. If so that system is going to need to be hacked for track duty to raise the threshold temp because you are always going to get it hot, regardless of what fluid you have in it.

Don't try and save money on fluid. Castrol SRF is the gold standard, and it's not too bad at about $65/liter on Amazon. I never had trouble with Motul 600/660 when I used it, but did have a buddy that boiled some 600 in a heavy car which drove me to SRF as a preventative measure.

To completely flush the system I'd probably go with 2 liters. But after that 1 liter per track weekend should be enough to bleed/flush. If you have a decent compressor a Vacula suction bleeder is great but if you don't have a big compressor go for one of the Motive pressure bleeders. Or you can hire out brake bleeding to one of the shops like GSpeed if you want the extra peace of mind. I think Driver's Edge tech sheets say to bleed every other track weekend, but I do it every weekend as race fluid and proper temp pads are the only things keeping you from having a very bad day at the end of the long straights.

Definitely get some DOT4 fluid in there and change it every 2 track weekends.

Otherwise, venting is the biggest aid to braking. Maybe look for some aftermarket air scoops or potentially make your own. Really only need in front.

From your video, you're not very hard on your brakes at all. Not being critical, but you are easing into your brakes vs. getting a hard initial bite and easing up to help the rear rotate into the turn. This is most noticeable (clockwise) between turns 1&2, exiting diamond edge, as well as coming out of keyhole. Once you feel the effects of that kind of braking, you will position the car to get on the throttle waaaaayyyy sooner than what you're doing there.

Watch this guy's lines and braking. He's the best driver I know.

You've got an amazing mid-engine car that is very capable of sub 1:50 times in its stock form. Good luck!

In reply to KidDoc Sounds like something brake related triggered limp home mode. Assuming your brakes look and feel OK, you should be able to reset limp home mode. Here's how:

1. Press and HOLD start button for approximately 20 SECONDS WITHOUT stepping on the brake pedal. Do not start the car. All displays should be lit, all electronics activated and stereo should play.

2. After approximately 20 seconds and all displays are on, release start button.

3. Stand on brake petal hard and hold it down.

4. A clicking sound will be heard from the ABS brake module mounted on the firewall in the front trunk. Hold brake pedal down firmly until clicking stops, roughly 15-30 seconds.

5. Release brake and push start button to turn the car off.

6. Start car as normal and you are good to go.


A couple of other things- I've read somewhere that GM is OK with warranting Z51's that have been tracked. I'm not sure if they extend this to regular Stingrays, so you might not want to tell the dealer you are tracking it without first investigating their official policy.

Also, I've seen almost new z51 calipers and rotors for sale on the corvetteforum. I'm not sure, but that is probably an easy swap.

Hope this helps.

When you get the pads straightened out, punch a mark into the ears of your race pads. Number the pairs if you want to keep the pairs together.

Wow great tips thanks to everyone for taking the time!

I'll try this ABS reset and hopefully it will clear the error and I can try to clean the rotors with the described procedure.

Here are the slotted/drilled rotors I ordered, much cheaper than OEM too (was $1200 parts/service to replace my first set).

Premium Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Kit (brakeperformance.com)

They have a lifetime warranty so even if they crack /shrug.

Thanks for the tips on the line as well at MSR. This was my first run CW so yeah need to clean it up some for sure!

Edit: had the brake fluid flushed and replaced with high temp fluid after the last track event so that shouldn't be an issue unless the shop used the wrong fluid.

In reply to ClintW

ClintW said:

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Sounds like something brake related triggered limp home mode. Assuming your brakes look and feel OK, you should be able to reset limp home mode. Here's how:

1. Press and HOLD start button for approximately 20 SECONDS WITHOUT stepping on the brake pedal. Do not start the car. All displays should be lit, all electronics activated and stereo should play.

2. After approximately 20 seconds and all displays are on, release start button.

3. Stand on brake petal hard and hold it down.

4. A clicking sound will be heard from the ABS brake module mounted on the firewall in the front trunk. Hold brake pedal down firmly until clicking stops, roughly 15-30 seconds.

5. Release brake and push start button to turn the car off.

6. Start car as normal and you are good to go.


A couple of other things- I've read somewhere that GM is OK with warranting Z51's that have been tracked. I'm not sure if they extend this to regular Stingrays, so you might not want to tell the dealer you are tracking it without first investigating their official policy.

Also, I've seen almost new z51 calipers and rotors for sale on the corvetteforum. I'm not sure, but that is probably an easy swap.

Hope this helps.

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Holy smokes thanks so much this cleared the message and everything seems normal with hard braking! It still has a transmission light on the dash so I'm going to head to AutoZone to pull that code in a bit.

In reply to KidDoc I've been looking for a new hobby....that looks like fun!

Code was just ABS complaining cleared it and everything seems fine. I suspect the sensors got upset about my street pads getting too hot and shut everything down to prevent a fire. Hopefully new rotors and using the right pads will prevent this in the future.

In reply to KidDoc Did you add the extra 2 quarts of DCT fluid?
The Z51 manual has a section on track prep where they mention adding the 2 quarts before tracking. Also, they suggest changing the DCT filter after 24 hours of track time. GM has a video on Track Prep - you can find it here:
https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/corvette-experience#guides
Scroll down, it is about halfway down the page, under Maintenace, on the right-hand side.

In reply to ClintW

ClintW said:

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Did you add the extra 2 quarts of DCT fluid?
The Z51 manual has a section on track prep where they mention adding the 2 quarts before tracking. Also, they suggest changing the DCT filter after 24 hours of track time. GM has a video on Track Prep - you can find it here:
https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/corvette-experience#guides
Scroll down, it is about halfway down the page, under Maintenace, on the right-hand side.

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Yeah I did all that stuff including track alignment.

I just tracked my Camaro 1LE two weekends ago at eagles canyon. My time was 2:20, which is pretty good for a first timer in a car, but I've been tracking motorcycles there for 3 years or so. It still felt good passing 911s and supercharged corvettes.

A Camaro 1LE is made for the track and GM warranties apply to the car, even if failure arises from track use.

Corvettes are cool, but maybe consider selling it and getting a car that's made to be tracked. You're likely going to be buying aftermarket parts to track the car and some of those parts can actually void your warranty

In reply to KidDoc

KidDoc said:

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So I have a 2023 C8 non Z51 that I am tracking. Yeah I know should have got a z51 but honestly I have met and read several z51 owners who had brake problems as well.

Some background first- I took my stock c8 to MSR Houston in the heat of June with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 AS (stock) and stock brake pads. In the end I smoked all the pads and had to replace all 4 brake rotors and all 4 tires. Replaced them with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S. I also bought Hawk brake pads one set for track one for road.

I went back to MSR Houston in September and did great with the new pads and stock rotors- did 4 sessions a day with no issues despite 100ish temps outside.

So I swap out pads for a track event his weekend and I got distracted and may have mixed up the sets (don't ask!). Looking at them there is not any significant difference in appearance of the sets so not sure how to tell them apart. Anyway my c8 threw out brake failure messages at the end of my first speed session this weekend and I had to drive from Angleton to Aggieland at 43 mph. On a positive note I got 30.5 MPG on the way home!

I took apart the pads and such at home and everything looks ok. I did lose a rear brake cooling duct on the way down due to debris on the road so that may be a factor. I'll post pics of the brake pads and rotors in a sec from my phone..

I'm going to limp it to the dealer on Monday to see what the heck happened. I'm hoping it is just because I mixed up the brake pads and was trying to track on street pads resulting in an overheat error and the C8 freaking out and shutting everything down. If the rotors are damaged (they feel ok to me) I think I will replace them with some performance rotors at this point.

Thanks for reading the long post just trying to figure out this tracking brake thing!

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Already you've joined the respective Corvette enthusiast's forum, specific to your year? That's where you'll find definitive answer to your questions.

In reply to KidDoc

KidDoc said:

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Code was just ABS complaining cleared it and everything seems fine. I suspect the sensors got upset about my street pads getting too hot and shut everything down to prevent a fire. Hopefully new rotors and using the right pads will prevent this in the future.

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Or abandon "hope" and reach certainty. You can continue throwing money at at a possible solution... or join "that
forum...

Finally got my poster from a few months ago and my new rotors arrived in the mail. Will post pics of the new rotors probably on Sunday.

Had another fun weekend at MSR Houston but on the next to last run on Sunday my cheap rotors in the front overheated and melted the Hawk pads causing the calipers to overextended. Had to reset the system again and got home np but when I took off the front calipers the pads were totally gone just a small piece of metal left and I couldn't get the calipers to retract and the little seals were all busted. Finally got one piston loose and got the caliper back on so I could put the tire on and towed it to Navasota.

Oh and I had cracks in the rear rotor for a bonus!

That was last Thursday, still waiting on parts from Chevy.

So this time I'm biting the bullet and got powerstop rotors with the Hawk pads. Should work when I go to the Texas A&M Sports Car Club event in Madisonville next weekend.

Anyway thanks for the tips!

In reply to KidDoc

KidDoc said:

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…Texas A&M Sports Car Club event in Madisonville next weekend.

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Wait what? TAMSCC is still around? what is this event?

In reply to tk for tu juan

tk for tu juan said:

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KidDoc said:

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…Texas A&M Sports Car Club event in Madisonville next weekend.

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Wait what? TAMSCC is still around? what is this event?

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https://www.facebook.com/share/p/U17RusCRA1eJP4UW/?mibextid=A7sQZp

man that looks like a lot of fun.